Tis a happy day, the day the first tomato ripens. We sit in the shade to share the first one like an apple: better one tomato than two, somehow, for this heady moment. The flesh is already warm from the morning sun, tomato juices run down our chins. We grin: summer has arrived! Soon we'll be doing all the things gardeners do with what will soon become a glut of tomatoes – a summer-only tomato soup, the Italian bread salad, even making homemade mayonnaise just for BLTs. But this very first tomato? It's always the best of the summer.
Once or twice a week for the rest of the tomato season, the evening meal will include either Marinated Tomatoes or a cousin salad with both cucumbers and tomatoes. It's hardly a "recipe" – call it a "concept" or better yet, just a reminder to revel in a summer tomato at least once this year.