This is a basic coleslaw.

I loved the crunch but was so-so on the taste. (Slaws with more zip are my preference.) It is a low-cal and low-carb coleslaw. And the kids and men at the table loved it. "It tastes like real coleslaw," repeated one after the other.

True enough, there's something to be said for a 'no fuss' coleslaw: every recipe collection should include one, now mine does!

The recipe comes from Marion Cunningham's Lost Recipes, as adapted by the New York Times Magazine in early July. I have some gripes about the recipe.

• It calls for soaking the halved cabbage in cold water for an hour in the frig before mixing in the dressing. Why? Perhaps to crisp up the cabbage? Is it a necessary step with a fresh head straight from the garden? I did follow it but even then couldn't figure out if it made a difference. [Want to know why? Read the comment below from Anonymous and her 98-year old blog-loving grandmother!]
  
• As written, the dressing steps will yield a lumpy dressing. As an experienced cook, I knew to do otherwise but still, bad instructions are a no-no for cookbook writers and editors and yes, New York Times testers.
• It's also a coleslaw that improves while resting for 24 hours. This isn't mentioned.
• It's just one recipe, perhaps not representative of the cookbook as a whole. But I suspect this cookbook wouldn't be a great selection for new cooks.
  

CLASSIC COLESLAW with BOILED DRESSING
Bookmark or print Classic Coleslaw with Boiled Dressing
Hands-on time: 20 minutes
Time to table: 90 minutes if needed but improves by resting 24 hours
Makes 8 cups

1 small to medium head green cabbage, outer leaves removed, sliced in half through the core

BOILED DRESSING
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 tablespoons flour (be sure to fluff with a fork before measuring)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Pinch ++ cayenne (a pinch yielded little flavor)
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup milk (I used skim)
1/4 cup cider vinegar (I accidentally grabbed the white vinegar, it was no problem)
Generous salt
1 teaspoon celery seed (or more to taste)

[Optional: soak the cabbage halves in cold water in the frig for an hour.] Chop the cabbage into fine pieces.

DRESSING
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over MEDIUM. Stir in the flour, sugar, mustard and cayenne, stirring quickly to combine after each addition. Whisk together the yolks and milk in a small bowl, add the vinegar. (It will appear to curdle.) A tablespoon at a time, stir into the flour mixture, fully incorporating each new addition before adding more. Stir until the mixture thickens slightly and when drawing a finger across the back of a spoon, the finger's path remains clear. Season with salt and celery seed. Stir in the chopped cabbage. Taste and adjust seasonings to taste. Refrigerate til ready to serve.

NUTRITION ESTIMATE
Per Serving: 39 Cal (38% from Fat, 15% from Protein, 47% from Carb); 2 g Protein; 2 g Tot Fat; 1 g Sat Fat; 5 g Carb; 1 g Fiber; NetCarb 4 points; 43 mg Calcium; 0 mg Iron; 16 mg Sodium; 29 mg Cholesterol; Weight Watchers 1/2 point